Happy Endings



With faculty sponsor



With Dept. Head

On Friday, the departmental faculty / staff held a going away lunch party for me. It was really nice and the food was delicious. We exchanged some presents. Souvenirs are like photos - personalized ways to extend your memory. On Saturday night, my faculty sponsor invited me and a colleague over for dinner. Her husband did the cooking and once again the food was great (roasted chicken and giant river shrimp). So, it was a good food weekend. :) We had a great time since the conversation was in English.

My visit to Thailand has been wonderful - people, food, culture and landscape make an interesting combination. Come if you can and see for yourself. Leaving tomorrow and of course I have some mixed emotions. I would like to stay longer, but I need to go back home. Here's one consolation. More than once the KKU faculty said that we were friends for life. A group of them are coming to Missouri this October to discuss a long-term collaboration with MU. Can't wait.



  

          

Wild Women?

When I told people I was going to Vietnam, they asked why (like, don't you have another choice)? When I told people I was going to Thailand, they said (with a wink and a nod), I know why you want to go there!

It's all about perception. American images of Thailand generally focus on two things: tropical paradise and estrogen-fueled women (but not necessarily in that order). I hate to burst your bubble, but all the women I've seen look and act perfectly normal. In fact, modest would be the best word to describe them. Everybody wears clothes. I have seen no public displays of affection - couples kissing or even holding hands!

By now, you are probably thinking about some news story that you have seen on television or read about in the newspaper (Bangkok or Pattaya). It's true, there are some wild women in Thailand just like in the US.  But most of our news reporting is based on sensationalism and sex sells! Here's a newsflash... the world's oldest profession is about making money, not love. So Tina Turner was right all along?

I'm not tring to paint a picture of absolute purity. Just getting you to rethink some stereotypes.

Thainess

I haven't been here long enough to fully grasp the meaning of this term, but I think it has something to do with language, religion, food, customs, and lifestyle - Thai culture for short. It's the special (mostly inner) qualities that differentiate Thai people from other folks. Here's a few things that I've noticed...

• Politeness. They extend a warm greeting to each other and foreigners alike. It's a simple gesture called wai, folding of the hands with a small bow of the head, instead of a handshake.  The older you are, the more greater the bow. It's a back-handed compliment, but I get a lot of respect in Thailand. :)
• Hospitable. Anxious for you to feel at home with their culture. Feel uncomfortable when foreigners offer to pay for something.  For example, when I offer to buy lunch for my colleagues they often say its too cheap and would rather I pay when the meal is more expensive (which never occurs).     
• Curious. Students are very interested in American lifestyle, but are very shy - inhibited because of language barrier and status.  But they certainly love to talk to each other. 
• Tolerant. Very accepting of others and diverse viewpoints. Goodness is found in everybody and everything. 
• Photogenic. Thai love to pose for photos, like a glamor shot or something. Also, female students like to take photos with me. Going to miss this after returning to the U.S. :(
• Ephemeral. Thai people seem to live in the present, more than dwell on the past or plan for the future. I think the song, "Don't worry, be happy" fits their collective personality very well.
• Conflict-avoidance. They want to make people happy, not sad, so they often defer bad news or delay making controversial decisions.  It's in contrast to most Americans "bull in the China shop" mentality.

Of course, there are many things I still don't understand. Here's a few of them. Many Thai people leave their keys in the door. Go figure. More than once I have seen the plastic still on furniture - long after it has been purchased. I guess its a way to keep it looking new! The toilet paper dispenser in the bathroom is exactly the same kind they use on the dining table.  Kind of gets you thinking both ways! But here's something that really makes sense. Thai eat with an over-sized spoon (right hand) and fork (left hand). I asked why. They can get more food on a spoon than they can on a fork!

Impossible to lose!



Old, but just like new!



Toilet paper and table napkin?



Model of efficiency!

Are you Boring?

I guess it depends on who you ask. Most Americans would probably say yes. Some Asians (not just Thai) have asked me this question, but wasn't sure how to respond. For some reason, I didn't really think they meant what was said.  You know, kind of like lost in translation. Instead, I realized that they were asking, "Are you bored?"  It kind of made me think that every Asian student had the same English teacher. Here's the way I figured it out. The clue was contextual - always on a field trip, attending a presentation, etc. Just to be on the safe side, I always say "no" - regardless if the verb ends in "ing" or "ed." 

Dancing with Cobras



Tourist attraction?

Some of the faculty members told me not to go.  They said it was too dangerous.  They said it was mating season and "wild" snakes often visit the area looking for romance. They asked if I had a life insurance policy. Glad I didn't listen. One brave professor and three students drove me to the King Cobra Village today. It was another great experience.

King cobras are native to Thailand and highly venomous - one bite can bring down an elephant. They are culturally important species, mainly because of their looks and habits (credited with having a good memory). In India, snake charmers put King cobras in baskets. In Thailand, at least Khon Kaen, they put on live animal shows. It's similar to rattlesnake roundups in the U.S. I've been to those too. Crazy, huh?

Area farmers figured they could make some extra money by agitating snakes, so they put on several performances a day for tourists. Probably make more money than rice farming, but this "hobby" is risky. One of the trainers was missing a few fingers (kind of reminded me of noodlers).  Last week the "head" trainer was killed by a snake. I read about it in the newspaper. But the show must go on.

First, some young girls got on stage with pythons (non-venomous). Later, they put the snake's head in their mouth - bizzare, but a real crowd-pleaser. Next, some guys got on stage and started messing around with live cobras. Not sure if they had been miked, but even so, I wouldn't want to take any chances. Finally, a small boy got on stage and demonstrated his prowess with a live, non-venomous snake.  They took up a love offering and I made a small donation. I bought a few souvenirs, but no snakes.


Out of the mouths of babes




Snake or arm quicker?

    



The serpent shall strike thy heel



Train up a child...



Massage Therapy

Okay, I know what you are thinking...  How could you? Don't you know it's only a front for prostitution.  Perhaps that's true for some locations in Thailand, but not all.  Massage therapy doesn't have that kind of reputation in the U.S. nor at the campus hotel where I'm staying. It seemed like a safe bet, otherwise they couldn't stay in business....  at least this business!

Overcoming my fear, I knocked on the door and was greeted by two Thai women who could barely speak English.  I wasn't sure if I had made the right decision or not.  One of them asked if I wanted a foot or body massage. I said body, and she wanted to know for 1 or 2 hours.  After verifying the price, I said 2 hours.  That turned out to be a great decision.  Before she started, I had to take off my shoes and change clothes. No big deal. 

The therapist folded her hands and said a prayer before we started. I took that as a good sign. I had to lay down on a mat. When she said face up, I finally figured out that she wanted me to lie on my back. First, she worked on my feet and legs, then it was back and shoulders. Lastly, she did accupressure on my head. It was half massage and half chiropractic, but I could have cared less. Two hours went by quickly. Don't think I had any stress going in, but afterwards, I had none for sure. And absolutely no drain on my wallet ($9.50).  I may have to do this once or twice more before I leave!
     

      

New Diet

I'm not a dietician, but I think I just solved the obesity problem in the U.S. My solution is so simple, I often wonder why somebody has not thought of it before me. If I could only make some money off this plan I could retire tomorrow or the next day!

I've noticed a few things after traveling in Asian countries. Most Asians are pretty skinny, but not all of them.  Trust me, the ones we see in the U.S. tend to be much thinner than the ones back "home." Americans, by in large, are heavier than any Asian I have ever seen (except for sumo wrestlers).

There are a number of factors that cause obesity, but food is the main culprit. You are probably thinking that Asians eat less (quantity) and their food is much healthier (quality) than ours.  This is a good explanation, but not perfect. First of all, I have seen some tiny Asian girls eat huge amounts of food. Secondly, some Asian food is not as healthy as you might think.  They use a lot of cooking oil and eat a lot of animal fat, including the skin (chicken & pork). Thailand uses a lot of coconut milk. That stuff will sweeten anything! Sticky rice contains sugar, you get the picture.

Here's the difference. Asians eat very little processed food.  So just eliminate  processed foods from your diet and you will lose weight.  Of course, that's easier said than done in America.  Almost everything we eat has been processed - its scary! But try my diet plan for one month and see what happens.  Go ahead and eat whatever you want (within reason), and stop counting all that fat, calories, carbs, and sugars - they don't do it over here. You don't have to eat Asian food for a month, just eat like an Asian for a month!  



 

Home Away From Home

Thai Bulldog?

No matter where you travel, some things will always remind you of home.  Although I live in Columbia, MO I was born and raised in Atlanta, GA. I'm proud to be a Southerner, especially now that MU has joined the SEC. Poor tigers, they hardly know anything about sweet tea, butterbeans, fried okra, cheesy grits, RC colas, and moon pies. But they will starting this fall.  

Some Thai scenes that make me feel right at home...


"Southern" food - Thai style!



Boiled peanuts and corn on the cob!



Only looks like hushpuppies!



Original or extra crispy?





Searching for Nirvana

Last Sunday, I went to the "Spirit Forest" with some graduate students.  It was an interesting experience. My faculty sponsor told me some about the place beforehand, so I was looking forward to it.  After we arrived, I was fortunate to get an English-speaking guide to improve my understanding. I also got a chance to meet a monk. Here's the story...

Mark and the Main Monk

About 20 years ago, one monk (above) came to live at a forest in Khon Kaen. Actually, it was an cemetery - not for burials, but for cremations. Only the spirits lived there, so that's why no one else came, except to dump the ashes. The monk overcame his fear and turned the place into a residential worship center. It's open to the public, free of charge.


 









Many monks live there now and volunteers often come to do work projects. Its a model of sustainability, they raise fish, dispose of garbage, and purify wastewater. They also collect solar power.  It's an ambitious project and still growing. They receive a large amount of charitable contributions to support the work.
 

Garbage disposal system



Fish farming













I have never seen so many graven images at one place in my life - people, animals, and some combinations of both. Exquisitely crafted and painted, many were gold plated.  For me, it was like turning back the pages of history. I don't believe much has changed since Old Testament times. I learned that Buddha was born in India about 500 years before Christ. Buddha's reign is limited to 2,500 years so they are preparing for a replacement (sculpture) to take his place.


 

North, South, East & West

Meditation helps one to find nirvana - emptying of oneself, nothingness, peace of mind, etc. This is a place of meditation for many, including, but not limted to the monks. The guide asked me to concentrate as we walked across a bridge with wide gaps between the slats (water was moving below our feet). Later she asked me what I saw. I told her that I saw water moving beneath my feet. Apparently this was a shallow explanation, so I think it will take me longer than one session to get the hang of it.  The guide asked me to return and I said I would in my next life - okay, just kidding!

 



Reclining Buddha



Tropical Fruit

Beautiful and delicious


Never paid much attention to alien fruits before, except for bananas and kiwis.  I tended to focus on the domestic varieties such as apples, oranges, peaches, pears, and such - the old standby's. What have I been missing? The same thing you are, a world of tropical fruits! When we use this term in the U.S. it normally applies to the flavoring, not the fruit itself.  For examples, life savers or antacids.  Rarely do we ever get a chance to eat the "real" thing. I think that tropical fruit is the best kept secret in Asia.  They are so sweet that many people eat them for dessert. Hey, now that's a novel idea instead of candy bars and soft drinks. 

Most Americans have heard of mangoes and papayas, perhaps after watching some re-runs of Gilligan's Island. Few know anything about dragon fruit, jack fruit, durians, mangosteens, rambutans, etc. A retired KKU faculty member was nice enough to give me a basket containing "assorted fruit flavors" (fruit + flavor).  What a beautiful and delicious way of saying, welcome to Thailand!

With the Students

A day like no other!  Seven plus one boyfriend (all students) picked me up at 10:00 am and I returned to my room at 8:30 pm. Wow! First, we went to the sacred forest and spent a couple of hours (this deserves a separate entry). Then they took me for lunch at a shopping center. I paid for everyone and they were astonished and so was I (9 people ate for $30). What a deal. So immediately I made 8 new friends!

Of course it means good luck!



Ominous temple entry















Then we went to "big" temple - 9 stories tall and everyone walked to the top. It was much easier coming down. :) Next we went to a coffee shop for some dessert. Thai people have a sweet tooth. If they are not careful, they will get as fat as Americans.  While we were eating, they asked me some questions - it was a class assignment.  Then we went shopping and I bought a few souvenirs.  It was the place where farangs go (Thai term for tourists). Strangely, I felt right at home. 

Lastly, off to the night market where we saw a brief performance and ate some more food.  It was a sultry night and I was sweating like a pig. The food made it worse. Never trust a Thai student when they say the food is not spicy. They aren't lying, instead their taste buds have been seared since birth. Here's my simple eating strategy: 1) always order bottled water, never drink anything carbonated; 2) always have some rice on your plate; 3) apply both liberally to whatever is burning - tongue, lips, teeth. You get the picture. It's a really cheap fire extinguisher!

Now, I'm back in the room soaking up the day.  It was fun.  They asked me lot's of questions. I asked them some in return. I think it was a good English lesson.

Very Superstitious

Remember the hit 1970's song, Superstition by Stevie Wonder?  In my opinion, "beliefs" characterize a lot of Asian culture.  Not good or bad, right or wrong, just different than Western thought.  Although there are some exceptions, most Americans are too scientific-minded to believe in such "nonsense."  We need to control and test things, but more importantly, see cause and effect relationships.  Not so in Asia.

The other day I was eating lunch with some of my colleagues.  They ordered fish and it was a good-sized one (enough for 3 people).  Naturally, I flipped it over after we got finished with one side. Naturally, that was the wrong thing to do. My sponsor gently explained to me that they don't "flip" the fish over because it will bring bad luck - similar to the waves overturning a boat and putting the fishermen in danger. Hmm... Never thought of it that way before. When they weren't looking, I flipped it back over, but I'm afraid the damage was already done!

When I go through the night market, I see vendors selling "lucky" numbers - kind of like our lottery tickets except you never "win" any money. I see fortune tellers, with playing cards, "helping" people to explore their future.  Here's an example if you are brave enough to try it. http://www.thebigview.com/pastlife/  Simply enter your birthday and submit. Make sure that you read the disclaimer later, it's a real hoot.

Contrary to what you might think, Asians are very religious people.  Every time I visit a temple, I see them worshipping - bowing, praying, burning incense, sometimes offering fruit and presents.  And temples are always open.

 









One of the main reason I enjoy visiting Asian countries so much is about differences, not similarities. Come and see for yourself, "the writings on the wall."  And if you think "they" are strange, then check out this vintage youtube clip and you might change your mind.

Around Campus

Khon Kaen University is a large, public university that primarily serves northeast Thailand.  It has about 35,000 students, so it's bigger than MU.  However, in terms of ranking, it is #5 in the country.  Khon Kaen (the city) is slightly larger than Columbia. It has 1.4 million people. :)  I'm working in the Dept. of Environmental Science which has a connection with sustainable tourism practices (ecotourism).  There are 9 faculty members - really nice bunch of folks to work with.
 

New academic home

 

Nametag on the door

The campus is swarming with students, especially females. Never seen so many except for in Vietnam. I'm encouraged that its not a male-dominated university. It shows much hope and promise for the future of Thailand.  Students, both male and female, wear uniforms every day - white shirts and navy slacks or skirts. This practice is common throughout Asian countries. The purpose is to lessen social class distinctions between the students. My oh my, can't imagine the riot if we tried that scheme in America.


Uniforms for sale

The student center, or "Complex" is similar to the Missouri Student Union.  Both have food, banking, and shopping, but the Complex is a little more "open."  I have seen birds flying through it and dogs laying in it. But if you need anything, they probably have it. They also have a 7-11. Gee, when was the last time you saw one of those?
 

Inside the Complex (Student Center)

 

American images?



What's for Breakfast?

The clock is set for 6:00 am, but sometimes I wake-up a few hours BEFORE my alarm goes off. Getting used to another time schedule (Khon Kaen is 12 hours ahead of Columbia) is not as easy as it sounds.  But after a few days, my system adjusts to the "new" routine. Strange as it seems, I look forward to the alarm clock actually waking me up! 


Rice soup w/mushrooms & meat

Breakfast is the most unusual meal in Asia, not just in Thailand.  In the U.S., we would say it's "heavy."  That might be an understatement. Forget about pastries and cereal. Haven't eaten an egg yet in the morning. My hotel does not serve yogurt, but I buy it regularly at 7-11 (yes, they are very common in Khon Kaen).  I have some fresh fruit each morning with toast/jelly, so that's pretty normal. The coffee is really good, but you have to be careful. First, you add a small amount of coffee concentrate (liquified) into your cup, followed by the hot water.  Dilute to taste. Of course, they have the "fixins" such as sugar and cream.

What's different?  Glad you asked.  The other morning I had some crinkle cut hotdogs (thought they were carrots) and turnips (greens + whites). I eat a small bowl of soup every day that contains rice, meat and mushrooms. Rice is served at every meal and I often eat it 3 times a day. The other morning, I ate some stir-fry carrots and brocolli, with pork (I think). Haha. There is a salad bar available every morning, including several dressings, but I'm not quite that hungry!

Fresh fruit





Toast & jelly